Gerber Prodigy - More Pic's

 Here we are with the Gerber Prodigy, again.

Since last post I have made and added a second leg strap. So, far it seems to work well. 

My next challenge will be to make an extension to anchor the sheath to my waist belt and use the leg straps.

Looks like I will get a chance to use the Prodigy in the field this weekend. So, I will try to update this post late next week.

Until next time......keep your friends close and your enemies closer!!

Mountainman.

Update:

Better late than never. Thanks for the patience.

Well, I did get to use the Prodigy a little bit. Much to my surprise the serrated blade was able to feather a fire stick, without a problem. So, my opinion of the Prodigy for a general camp knife or survival knife has increased. Good work Gerber.

I was not in an area that would allow me to hack my way through the sapplings, but I did take out a few branches. Compared to my Glock M78 Field Knife, the Prodigy was heavy enough for slashing but I found the blade a little short, to be a natural cut for me. My Glock M78 which has a longer blade seems to work more naturally for me. Of course, more time in the bush with the Prodigy may get me tuned in to the knife.

I do not have any regrets. The Prodigy is a solid knife and so is the sheath system. If you are in the market for a new blade, I still do not have a problem recommending the Gerber Prodigy.

Until next time.....get out into the field and test your gear.

Mountainman.

Project Pelican 45 Toboggan Part Two

 Well, it has been a good few days off. The first of the Pelican 45's has a new winter cover. YAH!

The white 420 denier nylon with a PU backing was probably the most expensive single item at $21 for 4 yards. But that is a bit misleading, as that one piece of fabric will provide materials for two covers. Extended cost per unit......$10.50 for the fabric. Quite acceptable in my books. The fabric is from

 Paccana Enterprises Ltd. A solid supplier, that I have dealt with for years. 

There was nothing fancy about the cover from the sewing standpoint. Double rolled and sewn seams top and bottom. And one end seam double rolled and sewn. The fabric piece was 30.5" wide by 126" long. An extra inch in length would have been okay or a little less on the end seam. The cover fit, tight.

 I then used 10x 8" pieces of 3/4" AC (animal control) webbing to make the loops around the base. 4x loops on each side and one at each end. Each loop was bartacked twice for each side of the loop. About one inch apart. Basically, bartacked across the seam lines of the hemmed bottom edge.

That was it for the sewing. Basically, a very large tube of fabric.

The next stage was making holes through the fabric and the toboggan. I could have used my hole punch for the fabric and my cordless drill for the toboggan. Instead, I opted for the soldering iron and melted holes through the fabric and then the toboggan. To ensure the cover did not tear, I inserted brass eyelets. (Note to self: get a new set of eyelet pliers.)

I did the stitch as you go method. So, I melted two holes and then pressed in the eyelets on the cover and finished by lacing the drawcord through the eyelets and the toboggan. I started lacing from the centre at the front and worked my way to the rear of the toboggan. I also tried to work evenly, a bit on one side then I did the other side. It was a slow method but the cover went on nice and level and even.

 The excess drawcord was half-hitched for a good three inches on each side of centre rear. In case a field repair or replacement is required, an extra 8" of so of cord is already there.

I then used about 36' of 1 inch tubular webbing (6x arm spans) for lacing the cover closed. It was weaved through the webbing loops, in a criss-cross pattern.

These last two pictures have a large red duffle bag inside the toboggan. It fit with ease. There is plenty of room yet.

I have a short leash on the toboggan made from about 18' of 1" tubular webbing. First tied into a loop using a tape knot and then girth hitched onto the pull ring at the front of the toboggan.

This baby is almost ready for the field. I need to do a little paint job on the plywood and then we are good to go.

I now have a trekking class toboggan for winter camping.

Until next time....Have your sled ready and get out there!

Mountainman.

Link to Part One: https://mtnmanblog.blogspot.com/2013/02/project-pelican-toboggan-part-one.html

The R3 Ruck Project Part 2

 The R3 Ruck Project is pretty much complete. I have two straps to attach, the A7A Straps.

As promised, here are my notes that I worked with to build the ruck. Not huge amounts of detailed drawings but enough to work from.

The first page contains the measurements of the ruck frame that I had to work to fit. Next is the basic layout of the main ruck bag and the pockets and features I would like to have. One thing I have learned in the last decade or so, when designing gear, and that is sometimes you do not get to incorporate all of the design ideas. The ideas may be good ideas but when you are actually building the ruck, you may decide later that the idea does not blend in well or plain does not fit the space available. Case in point, I had thought of using 2" common loops to guide the A7A straps, but when I was building the pack it became apparent that the main ruck bag would be too bulky if I had added a couple

 rows of 2" webbing. 

The next page was for designing the pockets, the side and front zip-off pockets. These pockets are removable so the ruck can have extra capacity when needed. When not needed the pockets can be removed and left at home.

The removable front pocket was designed to be used as a sling pack, for day tripping from base camp. It has been my experience that zip-off pockets work well for these type of pockets, just remember to install the zippers so up have to unzip in the up direction, that way you do not have to worry about the pockets unzipping themselves when loaded.

 Next, the top pocket was designed. Although, designed to use a skirt, do to a lack of materials at the beginning of the project, I decided to skip it. If I were to make another ruck bag to fit another Camp Trails Ponderosa frame, I would use a skirt on the bottom edge of the top pocket, because it helps keep rain, snow and debris from entering the main ruck bag when on the trail.

Features. What do I want to have on the ruck?? By writing a features list, early in the design process I can ensure to use as many of the ideas I have thought about and written down as possible. 

The key clip, goes inside the wallet pocket on the bottom of the top pocket. For those who have ever had to leave their vehicle for a week or so at a remote parking lot, will appreciate having a secure place to keep the vehicle keys. It sure sucks to return to your vehicle and not be able to find your keys and have to unpack your ruck in the parking lot, only to discover the keys were in to pocket of your hiking shorts.

 The harness. The shoulder straps and the waist belt. The most important part of the pack and some of the most fiddly work. The finished product has to be loose enough to fill with foam, but tight enough not to allow the foam to move or roll when in use. My success with harnesses has been mixed, some worked others not so much.

In the end, I opted for a basic "H" harness for the shoulder straps. The system used was a 6 point harness, top and bottom anchor points plus riser straps. I wanted to have the haul loop integrated into the shoulder straps, but in the end I was not able at this time make a design that I could work with. Maybe next time.

The waist belt  was a standard waist belt with gear loops, plus attachment points to attach to the ruck frame.

This next page shows all the pieces to cut, their size and how many. I wanted to add a water bladder pocket, however, once the webbing was sewn to the exterior of the main bag I discovered that the water bladder pocket landed right on top of the webbing. So, in the end the water bladder pocket will be modified to attach to the exterior of the ruck. All dimensions are in inches. 

The last page was just a reminder to me about the order to build the ruck in. As it was, the front anchor straps for the top pocket were accidentally omitted. Luckily, I noticed the error before the stormcollar was added and was able to attach them late.

One thing I did not do on this particular ruck, was to keep a log of every piece of webbing used. Helpful if you are making another project of the exact same design. For one of, type projects keeping a log of webbing used is good way of figuring out how many feet of webbing you used in total for your project.

I will get more pictures of the R3 Ruck Project soon. If all goes well today I will start on the cover for the Pelican Toboggan Project.

Until next time......keep you ruck ready and your toque on!

Mountainman.

R3 Ruck Project Part 1

 Here we go with another project in the works. The R3 Ruck Project. I am not about to proclaim I am a diehard eco-Evangelist, but will promote when and where possible it is a good use of resources and technology to reduce, re-use or recycle. Thus R3. As for the ruck, I started with an older Camp Trails Ponderosa. Purchased for a $1 at the Church garage sale.

So, this project starts by reducing, by not having to purchase new. Sorry, to the gear stores. The pack frame, still in very good condition is being re-used. This welded aluminum frame was state-of-the-art in the 1970's. The pack bag and harness are outdated and in need of replacement. The back band will, also, be re-used at this time.

 The project required fabric, plastic buckles, poly-pro webbing, and lots of thread.

The Cordura fabric, webbing, buckles, zippers and thread all came from PacCana Enterprises Ltd (Calgary, AB). I have been well treated there since 1995. It is very important to establish a good relationship with your suppliers.

The fabric for the storm collar, is a windbreaker type nylon with a PU backing. I have had it for a couple of years, and do not recall where it was purchased from. (See still re-using supplies!!)

First task was to remove the old pack bag. It was secured with an assortment of metal clips, wire and nuts and bolts. Hey, it worked.

With the exception of a couple of dents in the frame tubes, the frame was in excellent condition for being more than 30 years old.

In part two, I will post the drawings I worked from, you may enjoy them. The design I decided on was a variable geometry pack. I have made many of these in the past. What does that mean - variable geometry??? It means you can change the shape and/or size of the pack by adding or removing pockets or pouches.

The first items to be made were the removable side and front pockets. They zip on and off the main ruck. These extra pockets are meant to hold "light & fluffy" stuff. Extra fleece jacket, down jacket or vest. Or similar types of bulky but lightweight gear.

Further, the front pocket can be converted to a sling pack for day tripping away from base camp.

Next the main ruck bag was built. 

I, incorporated a row of M.O.L.L.E. compatible webbing on the headache rack above the  main bag. This will allow specialized gear pouches to be used with this ruck. Everything from canteen pouches to first aid pouches.

The top lip of the ruck main bag was finished with nylon seam tape to reduce the chance of the Cordura from fraying.

Next, the storm-collar was added  to the ruck main bag. This is a PU backed nylon fabric, light, tough and weather resistant - perfect for keeping sand, snow or rain from getting inside the ruck bag. I would still suggest packing all gear inside dry bags or Ziploc freezer bags to ensure a higher degree of weatherproofness.

The storm-collar also, allows the main ruck to be "over" packed, and still keep the gear in your rucksack. An important feature if you ever have to pack up quickly and get on the trail in a hurry.

The next feature constructed was the top pocket or the lid if you may.

The top pocket is removable, by use of side release buckets. The webbing allows the top pocket to adjust from firmly on top of the main ruck bag or rising a few more inches above to accommodate extra gear quickly packed. Or in those first aid incidents in the back country where you have to pack your buddy's gear out, too.

There are plenty of gear loops to attach those extras you just have to take with you. But cannot be hidden inside, like a machete, axe, snow shovel (winter camping) or a glowstick. 

For those familiar with the USMC sleep system that would be that very same sleep system inside the black valise. For those not familiar the USMC sleep system includes the black valise with vertical compression straps, a woodland camouflage Gore-tex bivy bag, a black sleeping bag and a lightweight olive green patrol sleeping bag.

What's next......A new waist belt and shoulder straps, as well as, a set of A7A straps to cinch everything together.

I will post an update, hopefully before the end of March 2013.

Yes, I am also working on the Pelican Toboggan covers at the moment but they are not ready, yet. Let's see how the next few days go. Fingers crossed.

Until next time.....keep your gear packed and ready to go!!

Mountainman.

The Gerber Prodigy

Gerber Prodigy, Para-Frame I & Para-Frame Mini

 Some new gear for a new year. Yah!

A Christmas gift card well invested. I converted my gift card into a Gerber Prodigy. And I am very satisfied with the exchange.

You are looking at the Gerber Prodigy and you are saying to yourself, that knife looks very familiar.....If you scroll to the bottom of the page and check out the last photo, you will notice that the Gerber LMF II and the Prodigy share many features, including good looks.

For those not familiar with the Gerber line of knives I had better get some of the basic stats out for you to know the Gerber Prodigy a little better.

Overall length of the Prodigy +/- 9 7/8"

Blade length +/- 4 1/2"

Blade width +/- 1 3/16"

Blade thickness +/- 3/16"

Blade type half serrated

Sheath Overall length +/- 10 3/4"

Sheath width +/- 2 1/2"

Gerber Prodigy

Gerber LMF II

The Gerber Prodigy is a full tang design, the metal of the blade continues straight through the handle to the glass break pommel and lanyard hole. One piece of steel. This is the strongest knife construction design. Knives with hollow handles or welded tail stock are noticeably weaker than a full tang blade when using the knife in a survival situation. The half serrated blade is great for cutting cord or rope, but not so handy when trying to make a feathered stick to help light your campfire. For those who really, really do not like serrated blades, a quick solution is to file away the serrations. The glass break on the pommel is a neat idea, should you ever find yourself in a motor vehicle collision and have to extricate yourself from a burning vehicle through a window. In such a case, I would recommend a high, inverted mount of the sheath on your gear vest. 

Speaking of mounting the sheath for the Prodigy. The included sheath can be worn or mounted in a number of ways, depending on what best meets your needs at the time or your mission. As you may notice in the pics, there are mounting holes to lash the sheath to just about anything. In addition, there is the standard belt loop to hang the Prodigy from your waist belt. There are also M.O.L.L.E. compatible straps on the back of the sheath. So,  the Gerber Prodigy can be carried on any of your M.O.L.L.E. vests, bags, pouches or packs/rucks. My biggest concern with the sheath, although well constructed in China, is the lack of double or triple stitching for the main belt loop. There is very little chance the Prodigy will fall out of the sheath as it incorporates a friction lock to securely hold the knife in place. My concern is that with only one row of stitching holding the belt loop that in time, with field wear the stitches may fray and then belt loop will open. Maybe, Gerber has field tested this sheath and my concern is not valid. Only time will tell. Other sheath features include two thumb break handle straps - to ensure the Gerber Prodigy will not accidentally fallout of the sheath when mounted inverted on the shoulder of your gear vest or ruck harness. A leg strap is included to keep the Prodigy from slapping your leg while running, when mounted on a waist belt. If, there were two leg straps the sheath could be secured to your lower leg, like a dive knife for scuba diving. 

The most noticeable feature missing from the Gerber Prodigy, when compared to its big brother the Gerber LMF II, is the hammer pommel. That big block of steel at the pommel end of the LMF II, which can be used as a hammer in a survival situation.

All-in-all, I am very please with my Gerber Prodigy and look forward to having with me in the field for years and decades to come.

Until next time, 

Keep your knife sharp and close by!!  

Mountainman.

Project Pelican 45 Toboggan Part One

 Time for a new project. This project starts with a stock Pelican Snow Trek 45 toboggan. Recently purchased from a local Canadian Tire store, for about $24, on sale of course. Full price around $40.

The toboggan measures approximately 20" wide by 45" long by 8" tall. Inside dimensions are of course, smaller. Material: Plastic.

 This toboggan is the right size for one person's camping gear. Winter is the time to pull your gear instead of packing it on your back. 

The challenge is, the pull cord on this toboggan is a little on the weanie side. We need to beef it up.

 Off to the local Peavey Mart store to get some hardware. Eye bolt and ring assembly 3/8" x 2 1/2" ($2.69), 2x 1/4"x2" carriage bolts + washers + nuts, sold by the pound ($0.51). Hardware = $3.20 + GST. The plywood was scraps I had in the shed. The outside piece is 5/8" plywood 4" x 6.5" and the inside piece is 3/8 plywood 4" x 5.75".

So, for the first part of this project we are still under $30.

 To prepare the plywood, I drew a centre line put a 3/8" hole at the centre and then put a 1/4" hole 2" above and below the 3/8" hole.

Then I transferred the hole placements to the toboggan.

Note: It is probably best to a fix one bolt and then drill the remaining holes through the toboggan and the inside piece of plywood. I had to drill a second bottom hole through the inside piece of plywood because the holes did not align properly for the bottom carriage bolt to go through. Ooops. My bad. 

Next insert the bolts and snug the plywood together.

It may take more than one tightening to get the plywood tight enough to get the washers on. I was only able to get the small flat washer on the eye bolt on the inside. I still have the large flat washer and lock washer. If in the future the eye bolt needs to be re-tightened I may develop more space and will use the other washers in the future.

Speaking of the future, this toboggan now needs a fabric cover and a harness. I will be making the traces out of 1" tubular webbing, mil-spec with a breaking strength around 2500 lbs. 

Colours to be determined. Red and blue 1" tubular webbing shown in the last pic. 

This modification will not likely be silent, as there is metal on metal contact with the pull ring and the eye bolt, but I was not making a tactical toboggan anyways. 

One of my suppliers sells a 420 denier pack cloth in white and I think that is what the cover will be made from. 

I will try to upload part two in a couple of weeks once I have built the cover. Then I will attach the cover to the toboggan. It will be laced on. Then this toboggan will be ready for a trip to the field.

Until next time.......keep your gear covered!!!

Mountainman.

Link to Part 2: https://mtnmanblog.blogspot.com/2013/03/project-pelican-45-toboggan-part-two.html

Gearing UP! Khukri Machete Sheath

 What do you do when you get a new knife, and the sheath that comes with it is crap??  

One solution, of course, is to not buy the knife to start with. 

The other solution is to build a new sheath.

If you are skilled at working with leather, build a leather sheath.

 I, however, am more comfortable with textile fabrics - like pack cloth, canvas, & Cordura.

So, when I acquired a Khukri Machete from Cold Steel, I was very pleased with my new blade. Not-so-much with the limp, cheap sheath. The included sheath provided the most basic protection to the blade but not much else. Too bad, because I bet that the poor quality of the sheath deters many from buying a very serviceable field knife.

 I decided the best course of action was to build a new sheath. So, I incorporated the required features from the original sheath - open back to allow the curved blade to exit or enter the sheath and went from there. I used 2 layers of 1000 denier Cordura fabric with 1/4" foam sandwiched between. So, in total I have 4 pieces of 1000 denier Cordura and 2 pieces of 1/4" foam - one set for the front panel and one set for the rear panel. Then I used nylon binding tape to finish the edges of the front and rear panels. I then added the webbing and Velcro, before assembling the front to the rear.

The straps, snaps and loop were added last. The lower of the two straps, wraps completely around the sheath to assist in securing the Khukri to a pack that has MOLLE webbing or gear loops.

While not perfect, I am pleased with the finished product.

So, when needed, build your own gear.

Keep you gear covered and ready to go!!

Mountainman.