31 May 2012

The G.O.O.D. Plan (Get Out Of Dodge) Part 4

Traffic to my blog is up. I believe this is generating interest. I will continue with another excerpt of the The G.O.O.D. Plan (Get Out Of Dodge).



You will need to document a collection of G.O.O.D. Maps. They start at your home and lead in all possible directions. The nature of the threat that is forcing you to evacuate your home will determine the direction of egress. If, it is a chemical spill or sour gas release, near your home; you will want to head uphill and cross wind from the spill or release. If, it is a nuclear melt-down or dirty bomb you do not want to evacuate down wind, as the fallout will be chasing you.

Start small. What is the best route out of town from your home? The quickest? The shortest? The least used? Which route has the widest roads? Are there bridges? Do you need to cross railway tracks? Where is the closest major airport? Seaport? Major rail yard? Military Base? Or city?

Your route will try to avoid major targets. Your route will try to avoid known choke points. You will try to avoid the crowds.

If, you have time on your side take the shortest route, so, you can be the farthest away at zero hour.

If, you waited a little too long, take the route with the least amount of traffic to compete with. Once a safe distance from the threat correct your course and make haste to your safe zone.

If, you are in gridlock and want to escape, especially on freeways, get into the empty lanes of traffic and travel in the wrong direction. Get back on your side at the earliest safe re-entry point. Be very careful if you choose to use this technique – if you are not paying 100% attention to the road conditions you could be killed by oncoming traffic. Be aware this behaviour is not for day-to-day commuting, and is only recommended in the most dire of times. Emergency evacuations qualify – such as trying to out drive an approaching hurricane.

You should have at least three routes to each safe zone. A primary evacuation route and two alternate routes in the event that a road or bridge is out. Try to have detailed road maps of your routes that include rural roads. The Backroad Mapbooks by Mussio Ventures Ltd. (www.backroadmapbooks.com) are an excellent example of the detail required for mapping out your evacuation route. Although, your navigator will have to flip pages from time to time, if you are forced to be on foot – these maps are detailed enough to set a course into your GPS unit or plot a bearing on your compass to get safely away from the highway.

Keep your G.O.O.D. Maps together in a package. A laminated copy is not a bad idea, either. It is not a good idea to photocopy topographic or road maps that use colour to indicate features. Buy extra full colour maps. You should have a copy of your G.O.O.D. Maps in your escape pack. Another copy in your vehicle. To limit a family security breach , you may want to use coded symbols to mark caches, safe zones and alternate safe zones.

Convoy Driving:

When possible travel in convoy. Have frs/gmrs radios so all vehicles can communicate while traveling at speed. Convoy driving is different than day-to-day commuting. First, all vehicles move as a single packet/group. Keep vehicle spacing tight. Leave no extra space for passing vehicles to squeeze in. Put your strongest drivers and their navigators in the first two vehicles and the last vehicle. Protect your heavier, slower vehicles by keeping them in the middle of the convoy.

Have the driver & navigator in the lead vehicle pick the best route with the information they have at the time. If, it becomes necessary to change routes as you progress, the navigator becomes even more important. If, you have a long route to your Safe Zone it will be necessary to rotate the lead vehicle position. The lead vehicle pulls to the right lane & slows slightly, as the convoys speeds pass. The second vehicle become the lead. Once the old lead vehicle has fallen to the

back into the follow-up position, the follow-up vehicle will proceed up the outside to the second position and insert themselves behind the lead vehicle. Since every vehicle has a radio to communicate with, these position changes should be smooth. The alternate method is to switch lead position after each refuel stop.

Further, convoy tactics and techniques will be covered in Appendix F.

One last point on G.O.O.D. Routes, remember to drive them at least once before needing to use them for real. Not necessarily, the whole length, maybe just the first thirty minutes from your home. We will review this a bit further in the Practice & Drills section.

Modes of Travel:


  • Motor Vehicle – car, truck, suv, motorhome, motorcycle
  • ATV – quad, side-by-side, motorcross, enduro, dune buggy
  • Bike – mountain bike, road bike, BMX
  • Boat – motor boat, sail boat, canoe, kayak, raft, rowboat
  • train – passenger, LRT, Cargo (hobo-style)
  • Air – plane, helicopter, balloon
  • Horse – with or without wagon, cart, buggy
  • Foot – hiking, walking, running


  • Motor Vehicle – car, truck, suv, motorhome, 4x4
  • ATV – quad, snowmobile, track-vehicle
  • Train – passenger, lrt, cargo (hobo-style)
  • Air – plane, helicopter, balloon
  • horse – with or without sleigh
  • Dog Sled – skijoring
  • Foot – skis, snowshoes, hike
  • Boat – motor boat, sail boat, kayak (in coastal areas)


Safe Zones:

A Safe Zone is a defendable location that favours the defender and challenges or restricts the assualter. Natural terrain features such as:

  • High ground with clear view of approaches.
  • Water source (river, creek, spring, lake)
  • Natural Source of fuel (trees, coal, other)
  • Escape route – covered or in dead ground
  • Ground soft enough to dig trenches or bunkers
  • Natural food supply near by – hunting or ground to farm vegetables

In addition to natural terrain features, your Safe Zone will want to incorporate the following defensive structures and features:

  • A layered defence
  • Command bunker in the centre
  • Observation tower in the trees
  • Sleeping area near the command bunker
  • Cooking & eating area near the command bunker
  • Latrine – down hill and/or down stream of the cooking area
  • Sump Pits to filter gray water
  • P.O.L. Point – away from the sleeping area
  • Fire points around camp – shovels, axes, pails of sand or water, and fire extinguishers
  • Observation Posts on the perimeter
  • Listening Posts on the perimeter
  • Slit trenches, foxholes & spider holes encircle the outer ring of the camp
  • Continous trench system encircle the inner camp outside the command bunker

(See Diagram on page 53.)


Survival Psychology:

The Will to Fight

If you do not own firearms, if you do not have military training, if you do not believe in violence and the thought of such lawlessness scares the shit out of you. NOW, is the time to befriend soldiers and veterans. You may need their help in the future.

Show your respect to those who risk their lives for your freedom. Be a good citizen, go to Remembrance Day ceremonies. Teach your children to value the brave men and women who defend your country. Put a “Support the Troops” sticker on your VW Jetta. Wear a red shirt on Fridays to show the troops you support them. You may not agree with the mission, but by God, you best support the troops doing the mission.

If the dark days return and you still refuse to use force to repel force. Keep this in mind, when the bad guys come and find you... Before they make you their slave, you will be forced to watch your wife and your children be gang-raped. You will see the terror in the eyes of your loved ones. Their screams will haunt you til the day you cower into deaths embrace. You will never see your family again. You will not know much they were forced to endure. You will not know how their lives end, nor where they are buried (if they were even buried at all.)

Your enemy knows more about terror than you can imagine. Living in a peaceful, arrogant, bliss is fine during peace time. But during, periods of lawless terror, you best be ready to fight tooth and nail to get peaceful times back.

Your enemy is very willing to fight to his last drop of blood to take away everything you value and cherish.

This ends my sermon.
Enough said.

I believe this is a good point to close for today.


30 May 2012

The G.O.O.D. Plan (Get Out Of Dodge) Part 3

Here we go with Part 3.



To assist you in making your plan i am going to compile a list of books, websites and movies. Most of the books I have read or at least had a flip through once. The websites are ones I tried while writing this manuscript, as time goes on their URL's may change. The movies are there so you can watch specific skills or challenges encounter by others, so you can learn to adapt your skills to overcome such challenges.

Survival Books:

  • basic wilderness survival – cold lacking snow by Mors Kochanski (1999). isbn 1-894453-00-x. Karamat wilderness ways. Www.karamat.com
  • complete survival manual by Michael S. Sweeney (2008). ISBN 978-1-4262-0429-6. National Geographic society. Www.nationalgeographic.com/books
  • Outdoor safety and survival for the Provincial Emergency Program (1981). Isbn 0-7719-8132-5. Province of British Columbia. Www.pep.bc.ca
  • SAS Survival Guide by John Wiseman (2004). ISBN 0-00-718330-5. Harper Collins Publisher. Www.collins.co.uk
  • SAS Survival Hanbook – new edition by John “Lofty” Wiseman (2006). ISBN 978-0-00-715899-7. Harper Collins Publisher. Www.collins.co.uk
  • Scouting for Boys – the Original 1908 edition by Robert Baden-Powell (2005). ISBN 978-0-19-280246-0. Oxford University Press. Www.oup.co.uk
  • Survival – fm 21-76 department of the army field manual. (Oct 1970). Headquarter, Department of the army. Available through Paladin Press. Www.paladin-press.com
  • Survival Kit Ideas by Mors Kochanski (2000). ISBN 1-894453-26-3. Karamat Wilderness Ways. Www.karamat.com
  • The SAS Urban Survival Handbook by John “Lofty” Wiseman (1996). ISBN 0-00-255803-3. Harper Collins Publisher. Www.collins.co.uk

  • The boys' book of survival – how to survive anything, anywhere by Guy Campbell (2009). ISBN 10-0-545-14590-2. Scholastic inc. Www.scholastic.ca
  • The two kilogram survival kit field manual by Mors Kochanski (2000). ISBN 1-894453-24-7. Karamat wilderness ways. Www.karamat.com
  • The U.S. Armed Forces Survival Manual edited by John Boswell (1980). ISBN 0812908899. Times Books. Www.us.macmillan.com/times.aspx
  • The Worst-case Scenario – Survival Handbook by Joshua Piven & David Borgenicht (1999). ISBN 0-8118-2555-8. Chronicle Books. Www.chroniclebooks.com
  • The worst-case scenario – survival handbook: travel by Joshua Piven & David Borgenicht (2001). ISBN 0-8118-3131-0. Chronicle Books LLC. Www.chroniclebooks.com
  • Tools of Survival and Survival Training by Mors Kochanski (1999). ISBN 1-894453-04-2. Karamat Wilderness Ways. Www.karamat.com
Just arrived:
  • Crisis Preparedness Handbook by Jack A. Spigarelli (2002). ISBN 0-936348-07-0. Cross-Current Publishing. Www.cross-current.com
  • Emergency – This book will save your life by Neil Strauss (2009). Harper Collins Publisher. Www.harpercollins.com
  • How to Survive the end of the world as we know it – tactics, techniques and technologies for uncertain times by James Wesley Rawles (2009). ISBN 978-0-452-29583-4. Penguin Group (USA) inc. Www.penguin.com
  • Long-term Survival in the coming Dark Age – Preparing to live after society crumbles by James Ballou (2007). ISBN 978-1-58160-575-4. Paladin Press. Www.paladin-press.com


Emergency Preparedness Books:

  • Emergency Planning Handbook by The A.S.I.S. Standing Committee on Disaster Management (1994). ISBN 0-7872-1399-3. American Society for Industrial Security. Www.asisonline.org
  • It's A Disaster! ...and what are you gonna do about it? By Bill & Janet Liebsch (2001). ISBN 1-930131-01-1. Fedhealth. Www.fedhealth.net

Military Books:

  • Ranger Handbook – sh 21-76 by United States Army (1992). isbn 978-1-58160-568-6. Paladin Press. Www.paladin-press.com
  • The Art of War by Sun Tzu: Translation by Ralph D Sawyer (1994). isbn 1-56619-297-8. Barnes & Noble Inc. Www.barnesandnoble.com
  • The evolution of weapons and warfare by Colonel T.N. DuPuy, U.S. Army, Retired (1980). ISBN 0-672-52050-8. The Bobbs-Merrill Company, Inc.

Camping Skills Books:

  • Be expert with Map and Compass – the “orienteering” handbook by Bjorn Kjellstrom (1955). Published by American Orienteering Service. La Porte, Indiana. Available in the latest edition ISBN 978-0020292654 at www.amazon.com
  • Camping & Wilderness Survival – The Ultimate Outdoors Book by Paul Tawrell (1996). ISBN 1-896713-00-9. Distributed by Gordon Soules Book Publishing Ltd. Www.gordonsoules.com
  • Map Use by Mors Kochanski (1999). ISBN 1-894453-02-6. Karamat Wilderness Ways. Www.karamat.com
  • Map Reading and Land Navigation – FM 21-26 by Department of the Army. Available from www.opsgear.com


  • Mountaineering:the freedom of the hills (5th edition) by the mountaineers (1992). ISBN 0-89886-309-0. The Mountaineers. Www.mountaineersbooks.org Current edition available at www.amazon.ca
  • Wilderness Basics – The complete handbook for hikers & backpackers (2nd Edition) by the Mountaineers (1992). ISBN 0-89886-348-1. The Mountaineers. Www.mountaineersbooks.org

Back to Basics Books:

  • Back to basics – A complete guide to traditional skills (3rd Edition) edited by Abigail R. Gehring (2008). ISBN 978-1-60239-233-5. Skyhorse Publishing. Www.skyhorsepublishing.com
  • Barn Plans & Outbuildings – Originally Printed in 1889 (Classic Reprint Series) by Byron D. Halstead (1999). ISBN 0-921335-64-4. Algrove Publishing. Available at www.leevalley.com
  • Homesteading edited by Abigail R Gehring (2009). ISBN 978-1-60239-747-7. Skyhorse Publishing. Www.skyhorsepublishing.com
  • Shelters, Shacks & Shanties – Originally Printed in 1914 (Classic Reprint Series) by D.C. Beard (2000). ISBN 1-894572-00-9. Algrove Publishing. Available at www.leevalley.com
  • The Art of Blacksmithing (3rd Edition) by Alex W. Bealer (1984). ISBN 0-06-015225-7. Harper & Row. Current edition available at www.amazon.com

Search & Rescue Books:

  • Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue (2nd Editon) by Andy Selters (2003). ISBN 0-89886-658-8. The Mountaineers. Www.mountaineersbooks.org
  • Knots for Climbers by Craig Luebben (1993). ISBN 0-934641-58-7. Chockstone Press Inc. Current edition at Falcon Publishing www.globepequot.com


  • Ropework (4th Impression) Translation by Tim Carruthers. Edelrid. Www.edelrid.de
  • Search & Rescue Fundamentals – basic skills and knowledge to perform wilderness, inland, search and rescue (3rd edition) By Donald C. Cooper, Patrick “Rick” LaValla, and Robert “Skip” Stoffel (1996). ISBN 0-913724-37-8. Emergency Response Institute Publications. Www.ericanada.com
  • Tracking: A Blueprint for learning How (7th Edition) by Jack Kearney (1999). ISBN 0965888118. Pathways Press. Available at www.nasar.org

First Aid & Medical Books:

  • Edible and Medicinal Plants of the Rocky Mountains and Neighbouring Territories by Terry Willard Ph.D. (1994). ISBN 0-9691727-0-5. Wild Rose College of Natural Healing Ltd. Www.wrc.net
  • Funk & Wagnalls Family Medical Guide (1993). ISBN 0-8343-0092-3. Funk & Wagnalls Corporation.
  • First Aid & CPR Manual – Canadian Red Cross (2006). ISBN 978-1-58480-349-2. The Canadian Red Cross Society. Www.redcross.ca
  • Medicine for Mountaineering & other wilderness activities edited by James A. Wilkerson, M.D. (1992). ISBN 0-89886-331-7. The Mountaineers. Www.mountaineersbooks.org
  • US Army Special Forces Medical Handbook – ST 31-91B by the United States Army (1982). ISBN 0806523972 (Current Edition 2002). Citadel Press. Available at www.amazon.com(current edition) or www.opsgear.com (1982 edition)


  • The Last Canadian by William C. Heine (1981). ISBN 0-7701-0210-7. Paperjacks. Also Published as The Last American by William C, Heine (1986). isbn 0859976459. Bath Firecrest. Out of Print.


Just In:

  • Bravo two Zero by Andy McNab Sergeant, SAS (1993). ISBN 0-440-21880-2. Dell Publishing. Available at www.amazon.com



  • Jericho Season 1 (2006). CBS. This is the best TV show to hit the air waves. Probably hit too close to home for those in power. Shows how a small town survives after a nuclear terror attack. 23 major cities are wiped out. If nothing else this show exposes the logistical challenges of survival at the community level. Season 2 shows the challenges of rebuilding after the “new” normal is restored. Unfortunately, this show was cancelled before season 3 was made.
  • Red Dawn (1984). This is the quintessential cold war resistance movie for young people at that time. This movie shows that running to the hills during an invasion may work to survive, however, you will have to learn to fight if you want your country back. Quick actions are the difference between surviving in the hills or being in the stockade.
  • 300 (2006). This movie is the ideal defence tactic movie. If you hold the right piece of ground, very few can withhold many. In this case it was a road through a gorge called Thermopylae - “The Hot Gates”. Given, the defenders did not win the battle, however, less than a thousand held off an army of over a hundred thousand. The will to fight, The proper training, the proper motivation, the proper weapons and the proper terrain and the balance of power shifts beyond just a numbers game. In battle you want a 3 to 1 ratio of your troops over the enemy, before you want to attack. You defend with whatever you have. Home field advantage.
  • Outlaw Josie Wales (1976). Again, we are watching the defence techniques. The final battle at the homestead. Not ideal terrain, but the house is defendable against the likely weapons of attack. Listen to the assessment of the defence made by Josie to his unlikely band of defenders. Each person is given a task. Everyone is briefed on the actions if hit and wounded –“...slap hot iron to any gunshot, it's the quickest way to stop the bleedin'...” Another heroic stand.


  • The Happening (2008). Once again, quick actions make the difference between surviving and being a statistic. This movie also shows how quickly you must be ready to evacuate. How the need for an evacuation plan and evacuation routes, as well as, alternate routes are also necessary. This also hi-lites the needs for contigency plans, for when things change enroute or events outside of your planning occur. The what if's and the now what's. Again I challenge your planning skills, what would you do in a similar situation?
  • The Andromeda Strain (2008). This movie illustrates the need for accurate and timely information. The more you know the better you can plan.
  • Magnum PI – Season 4, Episode 1 (1983). This episode spotlights the “Will to Survive”. This a must watch survivor psychology episode. I can not guarantee that if you watch this episode you will live, but I can easily guarantee that if you “give up” when you are trying to survive you will die.
  • The Road (2009). Read the book. If you don't have the time to read the book watch the movie. The will to survive and choices we make, are on the menu today.
  • The Day After (1983). What would happen in a nuclear attack? Another cold war thriller. Tensions were high and nuclear war was a possibility. This movie's job was to scare the crap out of you, make you decide any choice other than nuclear war is better than the hell of living through one. Like, Jericho, more than twenty years later this is also set in little town Kansas, USA. Obviously, the concensus is, if you have to survive, be in a small town and you might just make it. Live in the metropolis's and you are betting against survival – unless you can get out.
  • The Book of Eli (2010). What happens when you survive the end of the world and thirty years go by before you finish your mission? This movie gives new meaning to long-term survival. May change your planning on what would be worthwhile to cache. Well worth watching.


  • Mad Max/The Road warrior – Mad Max 2/Mad Max, Beyond Thunderdome (1979/1981/1985). How bad could it get? Watch the Mad Max versions of the apocalyptic future and you get the idea. The worst of animal man will be released, unchecked by law and order. The movie trilogy sort of ends in the hope of the children starting over.
  • The Stand (1994). Based on Stephen King's novel of the same title. After a man-made plague reeks havoc on the world the story follows two groups of survivors – good vs. Evil. A living metaphor for: God vs the devil. There are group dynamics worth paying attention to. The behaviours of the survivors, is common during normal times but get magnified during the stress of surviving.

As with books or magazines (fact or fiction), movies and TV shows; allow us to safely explore the unthinkable. If you watch or read with the mind set of learning what could happen and what you could do about it – then they are not merely entertainment. Use every opportunity you are given to learn something new about surviving. Attitude and the will to survive, needs to be nutrured by information. Failing to provide that, and like an unexercised mind, it will wither and eventually die.

Other Resources:

Your Local Library

Your Local College/Trade School/University

Your Local Boy Scout Troop

Your Local Mormon Church

Your Local Government Office – Emergency Preparedness

Your Local Rod & Gun Club

That's it for now.


The G.O.O.D. Plan (Get Out Of Dodge) Part 2

Maybe we should continue. Okay, I know there are few typo's and spelling errors, still. I have ideas and I put them on paper, I am not perfect at this writing thing. But I keep trying.

Part 2:


Personal Defence:

Most lawyers would advise the writer to skip this topic as the liability and risks are, too high. But, you didn't spend your hard earned, after tax dollars to read a censored manuscript. Did you?

Personal defence items span a vast array of technology and skill levels for use. At the low end of technology you are greeted by clubs, bo staffs, quarter staffs and hiking sticks. Although, easy to acquire, they require training and frequent practice to master. Providing a lethal range of +/- 3m. At the extreme other end of the technology spectrum are phase plasma rifles....just kidding. Firearms, currently top the technological extreme of mankind's achievements in lethal personal defence.

In between, is a fascinating array of weapons that represent all advances mankind has made since the days of the caveman right through to today. These weapons fall loosely into four catergories: Blunt Trauma. Edged. Kinetic Energy. Firearms.

In the right hands all can be lethal. In the untrained hands, however, many are a liability to the user. In general, the simpler the weapon, the more skills and training are required to be lethal. Firearms are the one class of weapon that require very little training to be deadly. Almost, anyone can be trained to effectively use a shotgun or rifle in a few hours at the range. As long as, you have ammunition for your firearm: the equation of strong over weak can be equalized, or so, Colonel Sam Colt has been immortilized for.

Let's take a few moments to go over a few of the features, advantages and disadvantages of each class of weapon. We will focus in on a few examples. My list is not complete, by far. If the reader is truly interested, I recommend further research while you still have the time. This overview, may also help prepare you for what you may encounter when you are Getting Out Of Dodge.

Blunt Trauma Weapons:

Clubs – Same as Grandpa Caveman. A heavy stick. Swing & hit your opponent in the head. You win. Make or find just about anywhere. Improvise and Improve. Wood, Metal, Plastic, or combination. Lethal Range: +/- 2m.

Staff – Long straight stick. Helps walking up or down hills. Crossing streams or rivers. Requires more skill than a club. In trained hands this stick is deadly. Think Shoalin Monks. Make or find in most places. Wood, bamboo, plastic or metal. Lethal range: +/- 3m.

Mace – A fancy & lethal club. A primative mace can be acheived by driving large nails through a wood club. However, a classic mace has a weighted metal ball, covered in sharpened metal spikes attached to a wood or metal handle. A near miss can still be lethal. More difficult to manufacture. Requires metal working skills and technology, like wire welders. Lethal range: +/- 2m.

Morning Star – A fancy wheat thrashing flail. With a wood or metal handle, a chain(s) and one (or more) metal balls. The metal balls can be spiked or spikeless. A significant amount of skill is required to master this weapon, without injuring oneself. Again, a near miss can be fatal. Requires superior wood and metal working skills and technology. Lethal range: +/- 2m.

War Hammer – A cruel blending of an ice axe and a framing hammer. The spike end is strong and sharp, capable of piercing plate armour and most-likely Kevlar, too. The hammer end is a square faced block of steel. If you can't puncture it, then bash it. The bone shattering blows will be effective, even if your opponent has a full suit of armour. Expert skills and technology are required to make an elegant albeit deadly weapon. Lethal range: +/- 2m.

Edged Weapons:

By far the greatest advancement until the discovery of gun powder. The use of edged tools and weapons allowed mankind to dominate over the rest of the animal kingdom. The range of weapons include obsidian inlaid wooden swords of Aztec and Mayan origin, the swords of the broze age, the Samuari's Katana, right up to todays ceramic knives and the CIA's letter opener. We have come a long way.

Edged weapons are generally found made of one of the four following materials: Steel. Plastics. Organics. Other Metals.

Steel is the most common material for modern edged weapons. It can be honed razor sharp and can be shaped to fill every need. In this day of superior steels why would you use any other material?

Plastic is an abnormal material for modern edged weapons, but in certain circumstances it is the perfect material. You are not likely to come across too many plastic knives, but they are out there. The CIA's letter opener, for instance is a tough little dagger designed to get pass metal detectors and eliminate their opponents – Spy vs Spy. The brush knife is another plastic stabbing device. The head of the brush conceals the knife and acts like a sheath. The handle and blade are withdrawn from the brush head to deploy. This knife was designed to deceive the average observer. Correctional Centres see the most prolific use of improvised plastic edged weapons – namely plexiglas shivs.

Organics – include stone (obsidian, flint), glass and ceramics. At the microscopic level obsidian and ceramic edges are many times sharper than a razor blade. However, there is a trade off for this type of sharpness, which is the blades are very brittle. In surgery this brittleness is not a problem but in the jungle, your blade will be chipped if not shattered by your adversary – leaving you willout an edge to hide behind.


Other Metals – Iron, Bronze, Copper. Not common to encounter in our modern times, but could reappear if things devolve. These metals are the easiest to work in a primative setting. Most are cast into their shape and sharpened. No forging or tempering. Edges may not hold an edge long and are easily dented when in combat. Steel weapons were known to cleave iron blades in half during battle. The one advantage of iron is it does not rust like steel.

Having said all that, you are most likely to procure a steel edged weapon for your escape pack. It is the most common available material. The biggest question you will ask is, will it be stainless steel or carbon steel? The advantage of Stainless steel is it is low maintenance. The disadvantage is it is difficult to resharpen in the field. With new diamond grit sharpening stones that is changing, too. Carbon steel can easily be resharpened in the field to a razors edge, if you have a quality blade to start with. The challenge with carbon steels is they need regular maintenance, including oiling the blade to prevent rust or corrison. One other feature of carbon steels is they spark when struck with flint or quartz, so for emergency fire lighting a carbon knife would be the best choice.

Edged weapons are designed to acheive three distinct actions: Slashing. Thrusting. Chopping. Many blades can acheive two of the three, rarely can all three be accomplished by the same blade. Enter the combat knife – designed for combat it can chop branches or limbs, it can slash air-frames or flesh, As well as, puncture an oil can or a chest cavity. The bowie knife and the Ka-Bar are two examples of combat knives. As with other things in life there are trade off's. If you need the best of each type of blade it would be best to carry three different blades that specialize in each feature: Slashing. Thrusting. Chopping.

Slashing – is a fine cutting edge. Used for skinning animals or filleting fish. A good hunting knife will work here. Like a Buck or Gerber fixed blade knife. 4”- 6” Blade.


Thrusting – is a strong, pointed weapon. Used for puncturing thick hides, bones or armour. This is the world of daggers. Sharp enough to cut skin, but not necessarily slice skin. The shape of the blade, a triangle or diamond profile tapering to a point, provides the ability of this edged weapon to pierce and do its job. The blade is thick enough to be strong and long enough to inflict maximum damage to internal organs. A good choice here is the Tanto blade design. The Cold Steel Recon Tanto, with its 7” Blade and 4 3/4” handle makes an excellent thrusting weapon.

Chopping – is a thick, strong blade. Used to chop things. A meat cleaver or an axe are both good examples of chopping devices. It depends what you are chopping as to what you want to be chopping with. An axe is good for chopping wood. A machette is good for chopping brush. A cleaver is good for chopping up whole chickens. For the context of getting out of dodge, a belt axe or tomahawk would be a great choice. A good example I have come across lately is the Fiskars Garden Axe. It is fairly light, well balanced, affordable and has a synthetic handle. Good enough to split kindling or split wigs, but, a little too light for felling trees.

To further complicate the selection of an edged weapon, we must consider size: Short. Medium. Long.

How far does your weapon need to reach? Or, what standoff distance do you want to have? Remembering, that a long standoff distance leaves you vunerable if the opponent can get inside. That was why some of the sword fighters of old had a single hand sword in their right hand and a main gauche (dagger) in their left.

We will consider a short edged weapon to have a blade length of 1” to 11”. A medium blade to be 12” to 23”. A long blade is anything over 24”. The handle length will contribute to the maximum range of the blade's effectiveness.


If you are planning to shelter-in-place, you are to be envied, for you can enmass an armoury in your home. Allowing you the luxury of selecting the perfect weapon for each engagement. However, if you are forced to leave the shelter of your castle and have to choose only what you can carry, this is most challenging of challenges. What is the “perfect” edged weapon to carry?

Of course, that is a purely, subjective question. Unfair, because only you can answer it correctly for you. For me, when I am hiking in the mountains I carry my Normark Erikson. It is a stainless 4” blade with a 5” synthetic handle and plastic sheath. I attach it to my pack or belt with a locking carabiner. It is an all round camp knife. Sharp. Light. Dependable. Would I chop branches with it, no. But it will gut a fish in a heart beat, fingers, too, if they get in the way. Now, when I am camping or hunting and need a tougher blade to build camp with, I like to have my Glock 78 Field Knife with me. It has a carbon 6 1/2” blade, 5 1/4” Plastic handle and a locking plastic sheath. This knife has been with me for more than 20 years and still going strong. The black finish is wearing off the metal parts, but it still work great. If I had to leave tonight, which one would I take....both. They are knives and they are light.

Right now as you are planning, is the right time to start acquiring knives and the rest of your gear. Building a small collection of knives to evaluate is a good idea. Once you find your best knife you won't have to ask which one is the best one for you to take...because you will know. It will be the one you reach for first in the middle of the night.

But, you can only know if you use your knife in the real world. Take it hiking, camping, fishing or hunting. Learn what it can do and what it can't. Break a couple blades and you will learn how much force is necessary to accomplish the task.

Kinetic Energy Weapons:

Kinetic energy weapons propel a projectile providing: velocity x mass = kinetic energy.

This is, of course, the simple formula. You can google the actual physics formula of calculating the exact kinetic energy on you own time.

The projectile maybe the weapon, such as a spear or javelin. Or the weapon may be the launcher of the projectile, such a sling or crossbow.

The lethaliness can be from the projectile piercing or striking a vital body part (head, heart or lungs) or the damage to surrounding tissues leading to an eventual death.

The simplest kinetic energy weapon is the sling. The same weapon that David used to slay Goliath. The sling consists of a leather pouch with a leather thong on each end. A stone is placed in the pouch and then the sling is swung. When ready to fire at your opponent you release one of the thongs and the stone is launched. With considerable practice you will be able to send a lethal hit to a range of 15 meters.

The sling shot is a modern adaptation, using rubber tubing, a metal frame and a leather pouch. A steel ballbearing is projected by placing it in the leather pouch and drawing back. Similarly to a long bow. When ready to fire, simply release the pouch and the ballbearing will race towards your target. The sling shot is easier to master than the sling, however, it is a more compact design for smaller projectiles. Resulting in reduced range. With practice the sling shot can be lethal to 10 meters.

The bow (long bow, short bow, recurve or compound Bow) uses a stiff limb(s), a handle, and a string to launch its arrow. Modern bows are quick to learn as they have adjustable sights to aim at your enemy. Depending on draw weight, arrow type, and practice; the bow can be lethal to 30 – 40 meters.

The crossbow, in its modern version, is a short bow attached to a rifle stock. The draw weight is quite a bit heavier than a regular bow, however, the release mechanism holds this weight until you squeeze the trigger. So, although slower to reload than a regular bow. The fact that you can travel around all day with a bolt ready to fire has a lot of advantages. With the assortment of sights available for crossbows, including telescopic sights, the crossbow is quick to master compared to a regular bow. The crossbow is also relatively quiet to fire, compared with a firearm. The crossbow would be my first choice, if I didn't want a firearm for defence. With the correct crossbow, sight and bolt combination, this unit can be lethal to at least 50 meters.

Spears and Javelins, do not really have a modern equivalent, with exception of the olympic javelin. The olympic javelin is designed to fly for distance when thrown correctly, it is not intended for combat nor piercing armour.

A spear is basically an edged blade attached to a long straight shaft of wood, bamboo or metal. It can be used as a thrusting weapon without letting go of the shaft or a kinetic weapon when thrown at an adversary. The length of the shaft is the limit of the range as a thrusting weapon, about 3 meters, however when thrown, the lethal range may be extended to 20 meters, if you can hit your target.

The Roman Javelin was both a thrusting weapon at close range and a long range missile. When thrown in a volley at a barbarian horde, the Javelin was lethal to at least 100 meters. In a modern context, however, the skills necessary for such distant death from a javelin have probably been lost.

One parting word must be spoken for the boomerang. Not a common weapon on this side of the Pacific, but in the outback of Australia, made with the correct type of wood, the boomerang will drop a full size kangaroo. Man-size targets would also be vulnerable to a skilled thrower. Lethal range 15 – 25 meters.

The kinetic weapon's family is no different than other weapon systems, they are vulnerable to running out of proper ammunition. Slings and sling shots can improvise with stones or rocks lying on the ground, but accuracy & range will be reduced by inferior projectiles. Similarly, once you fire off your last arrow, bolt or throw you last spear you will have to prepare for hand-to-hand combat until you can reclaim your fired projectiles off the field of battle. Which is a good thing when you win, but if you must withdraw from the field due to overwelming numbers of bad guys, you will have to make, buy, trade or steal new projectiles before you run into more bad guys.

The kinetic weapons family allows you to have a greater standoff distance than any of the more primative weapon systems. To maximize the effect, however, you must be highly skilled and well practiced.


Firearms are the pinacle of personal defence weapon systems. Let's stick with modern firearms: pistols, shotguns. Rifles.

The major advantage of firearms is their lethality is not dependent on the physical strength of the user. Their short-coming is, once out of ammunition their advantage is lost. To this end, when selecting a firearm, choosing one that uses a common cartridge would be a wise choice. For when that Dark day arrives that you have to scrounge for ammunition, it will be easier to be successful if you are looking for a cartridge that is widely available.

We will have a look at the common types of firearms, their effective range, advantage and disadvantage, as well as, list their usual capacity of rounds. Ie – how many times can you pull the trigger before you need to reload.

Now you have a basic understanding of the types of firearms available and what they were meant to do. To proceed to selecting your firearm, you will need one that satisfies your needs, your terrain and your suspected threat. Pick the one you like and are most comfortable with. If you are afraid of your weapon, you are not likely to bring it with you. When you need it the most, to save your ass, you won't have it.

There are going to be limitations on your firearms acquisitions: be it time, money, storage or legal paper work. You will have to find time and money to conduct training to get your skills up to snuff. You also have to work out where you will likely be using your defensive weapons and against what or whom. Maybe a few scenarios may help the selection process.

Scenario #1:

You and your girlfriend live in a small cabin about two hours from the closest town. You don't really have a lot of neighbours nearby. In fact, few people travel the side track you live near. You are comfortably isolated from the darkness of society. You own a jeep, a canoe and a quad. In fact, most days you drive to the neighbours on the quad to save fuel. Speaking of fuel, you have a bulk 90 gallon fuel stand in your yard, buzz the petro guy tops up the tank once a month. You both have known how to shoot since your were 10 years old, you hate to admit it but she kicks your ass at target shooting. You have decided to take this emergency preparedness stuff seriously. Things don't look as bright as they use to. As part of your plan you want both of you to be armed if you have to evac from your little paradise. You decided that the jeep will be your kit bag. If it fits in the jeep, it's coming along. You have room for 5 weapons. It's not likely the russian will parachute in so, the weapon's want to be compatible with NATO ammo. Each of you have chosen a 9mm sidearm, ammo will be plentiful if you return to the world. She likes the Springfield XD-M Compact 9mm. You prefer the good old Browning Hi-power. She likes the Mini-14 Ranch rifle in .223 rem with the aimpoint scope. You figure you may need to bag bambi or a moose from time-to-time so you want a little more dropping power and opt for a McMillan M1A, .308 win, setup in the mfs-14 modular tactical systems stock. You choose a

compact 4x rubber armoured scope with flip-up scope covers and illuminated reticles. For commuting on doomsday your fifth weapon is a Winchester Defender, 12 gauge, with the 8 round tube and a pistol grip and top folding shoulder stock. You have one gun rack across your dash, another behind the driver's seat on the roll bar and the defender in a scabbard lashed behind the passenger's seat. The pistols, of course, will be riding in holsters on that day. So, the logistics include: 9 mm ammo, pistol holsters, .223 rem or 5.56 nato, .308 win or 7.62 nato and an assortment of 12 gauge rounds – slugs, mini-slugs, buckshot and #4 or #5 birdshot. I think short of an earthquake or a wildfire, these two are set to Evacuate-in-Place.

 Like most military contingency plans, you hope to never have to use your G.O.O.D. Plan.

Well i hope the scenarios helped a little to narrow down your selection process for a defensive weapon system for you or your family. If we could only be so lucky as to be in scenario #4, of course, if everyone was; there would be no need for you to acquire the G.O.O.D. Plan – for you could write your own version.

Here are some points to concider if you will be with a group larger than your family:

  • Try to use standard calibres. This makes it a lot easier when you need to borrow ammo. If your group was brought together as part of your G.O.O.D. Plan, you may have standardized your weapons and calibres, so magazines would also be interchangeable.
  • If more than one person in your group, you should have at least one .22lr. These weapons are light, accurate and you can easily carry 100 cartridges in your pocket.
  • NATO standard ammunition includes: 5.56x45mm = .223 rem; 7.62x51mm = .308 win; and 9x19mm = 9mm para. NATO standard ammunition is recognized by a headstamp on the brass that looks like a plus sign with a circle around it.
  • Old Eastern Bloc standard ammunition includes: 5.45x39mm (ak-74's), 7.62x39mm (sks & ak-47's), 7.62x54mm (SVD Dragunov, Mosin-Nagant), 7.62x25mm (tokarev tt-33), {9x17mm Browning (.380 ACP) (Export Makarov's)}, and 9x18mm PM (makarov - PM).
  • Firearms with detachable magazines are the quickest to reload.
  • Use a gear vest to store spare magazines, wear it over your jacket when it is cold out.
  • Keep extra ammunition and extra magazines in your pack, vehicle, cache(s) and/or at your Safe Zone.
  • Spotting scopes and binoculars are good for locating and identifying friends or foes.
  • Pistols are of limited value. If you have one, know how to use it. If not, get a shotgun.

  • Remember a 12 gauge shotgun is the most versatile weapon system. Load down for hunting game birds and load up for deer or two-legged predators.
  • Remember sights with optical lens or requiring batteries may fail. Carry spare parts. Have iron sights for back-up.
  • Remember have a cleaning kit for your firearms. It Should have a bottle of oil, bore-brush, cleaning patches and a pull-thru or cleaning rod.
  • Remember to zero your firearm. Practice regularly.
  • Remember to keep your muzzle free of obstructions – mud, sand, snow or ice. Use a muzzle cap if needed.
  • Remember, choosing unlawful weapons is your choice, you will be held accountable if caught with them. If society, as we know it collapses, you may be forgiven.
  • If you choose to carry a firearm, you must be willing to use it. You may be able to bluff once, but... if you can not bear the necessity to use lethal force; DO NOT carry a firearm – it will only get you into trouble.

  • It is always better to choose to be judged by twelve of your peers then be carried by six of your friends! Your family first – dirt bag, scum-sucking, low-life's last!

The only thing left on your list for defensive weapons is to decide which one fits your needs best
get it.

See the reference section for a list of
personal protection & defensive weapons

G.O.O.D. Vehicle Stuff:

Might have got a little long winded in the last section. I will try to be more focused here.

Before I get into listing the gear you need to have packed in your G.O.O.D. Vehicle, let's review some worthy features to have in a G.O.O.D. Vehicle. The features may contradict themselves at times but you will have to choose which feature is more or most important to your situation.

  • Good fuel economy
  • reliable
  • repairable & Repair Manual Available
  • cargo capacity – half ton, ¾ ton, 1 ton, 2 ton
  • passenger capacity
  • easy to acquire spare parts – uses common parts
  • off road capability – 4 wheel drive
  • winter driving capability – chains or good tires
  • good climate control – heat in winter or a/c in summer
  • comfortable seating
  • defendable on the road – shooting from vehicle
  • trailer pulling capability – bring extra fuel & gear
  • maneuverable – high speed &/or low speed
  • camouflageable – blends with environment
  • self-recovery capability – winch or come-along
  • Highway vehicle or off road vehicle – Mad Max?

Vehicle Equipment:

Spare tire – full size. Two would be better.
Fuel Jerry can – 20 litre's +. two would be better.
Jack or jack-all – 36” or 48”. Changing tires. Unstuck.
Tire iron – star iron. Wheel wrench. Impact wrench.
Tow Strap or Tow Rope – 20' minimum. 30' would be better.
Saw – bow saw. Hack saw. Chain saw.
Axe – Estwing Camp axe. Gerber Camp Axe.
Shovel – #2 with long or “D” handle. Or mini-shovel.
Jeep Pick or full size Mattock – pulaski could work.

Jumper cables – boosting a dead battery. 4-6ga, 16'-20'.
Highway Flares – signalling distress. Fire starter.
Blankets or Sleeping bags – keep warm.
Water – bottles or jerry can.
Matches – box of wood matches. Strike anywhere.
Candles – keep warm. Heat water in billy can.
Billy can – 100 oz can. Label removed. Hold safety items.
First Aid Kit – See appendix B
Energy bars – trail mix bars, granola bars, chocolate.
Toilet Paper – at least one roll. Sealed in a ziploc bag.
Flashlight – led type with extra batteries.
Fuel card(s) – at least $100 worth.
Air gauge – for checking tire's air pressure.
Cable ties – zap straps of assorted lengths.
Tye wire – a small roll.
Electrical tape – black. At least one roll.
Duct tape – get the good stuff. 3-M. Thick & Tough.
wd-40 – small can.
Fuses – get extra fuses that fit your vehicle.
Pliers – good pair of 8” linesman. Cutting wire or fences.
Crescent wrench – just in case.
Screwdriver – multi-bit or set of screwdrivers.
Socket set – whatever type fit your vehicle. SAE. Metric.
Snow shovel – must have for winter driving.
Chains – winter driving. Good to have.
Kitty litter or sand – weight and traction aid. Chocking.
S.O.S. Flag – signal distress.
Space blanket(s) – Keep warm.
Parka(s) – with mitts, toque & scarf.
Tarp – shelter.
Ratchet straps – securing your load. Self rescue.
Cooler – store water bottles.
Filters – Oil. Air. Fuel. Cabin. Pcv.
Oil – extra motor oil. Proper type for your engine.
Atf – extra automatic transmission fluid. Correct type.
Bulbs – Extra. Turn signal. Brake. Headlight.
Belts – Extra. fan belt. Water pump belt. Alternator.
Winch – for self-recovery.
Come-along – For self-recovery.
Trailer hitch – with ball. Carry extra balls.

Selecting a G.O.O.D. Vehicle, like every else I have presented, is a highly subjective subject. Some people like one make of vehicle and hate others and vice-versa. Select a vehicle that is the right size to carry your family and your escape packs. Select a vehicle that will get you from your home to your safe zone. Select a vehicle that is designed to drive in your local climate, altitude or seasons. If you plan to pull a trailer with extra gear, make sure your vehicle can handle the extra duty.


The supplies and equipment for building a defendable safe zone are rather extensive, expensive, bulky and heavy. Unfortunately, they are also necessary to build the required structures. Remember awhile back I spoke of being able to improvise? If you stockpile many of the safe zone supplies in a cache or have a storage area enroute, you could shuttle supplies after arriving. Or you may choose an area that has alternate sources to build with, such as a forest full of trees.

Another possible method of avoiding this is to build your safe zone in advance, on weekends or during your summer vacation. Of course, you will have to review local building codes and land use bylaws in your area. By just having the land and being able to stockpile the supplies and tools on it could be a very big help. You could travel light and fast to your safe zone, and while the panic is growing, you can be building your defences.

This list
of supplies for your safe zone is to get you thinking. Planning how you will get
what you need,
when you need it. 

Okay I hope that wets your whistle for a few days.